Nine years after our first visit, we finally made it back to Gerald Durrell’s magical island. Flying in, over the pine covered hills and white pebble beaches lapped by that turquoise, clear water, we were already excited to be back. We stayed where we did the first time, Amalia Complex, in the cute village of Nissaki in the North east. It was all just as we remembered it; the epic views of the hills and sea, the lemon trees, the pool… we even got the same room!
That first morning, we had a nice brunch on the balcony in the sun, and then set off to explore Kassiopi, a village just north of ours. We had been there last time, and knew it was lovely. With its little harbour of fishing boats and yachts, and cafes by the water, and stunning views of the sea all around, we had a lovely wander there, and also climbed up to the old Byzantine ruins, and got lost around there.
That evening on our walk we got followed by a stray cat. So much so that we decided to pick it up and take it back with us, we just couldn’t bear to leave it chasing along the side of the busy road. So we now had a cat friend for the holiday, who we called Nephele, who had a thing for cornflakes and ham slices and was an adorable addition to our holiday. Not to mention that this is now her home, a much better place to live. Later on, we watched a beautiful sunset, as we would each evening. In general, we were blessed with lovely weather throughout, sunny but pleasant.
The next day we decided to rent a boat. This is something we had done last time too and really enjoyed. So we got a little craft, Danny, and somehow got it out of the harbor and into the sea. It took a while to master the steering but we did, and took it in turns to enjoy the stunning views of the coastline and lie in the sun, and also steer the boat along. It was a great way to spend a few hours, and we got back for a late lunch on our balcony and a chill afternoon, sitting by the pool, having a laugh and listening to music.
We had an early start the day after. We were taking the ferry to Albania! A new country, why not, when it’s just an hour away by boat. The ferry was great; large and spacious and we spent the whole time up on deck, watching first Corfu Town pass by, and then the miles of sea and islets and hidden beaches. And we really couldn’t believe it when we started seeing pods of dolphins! Truly unexpected and amazing. Eventually, the coast of Albania came into view, full of colorful houses, as we came into port of the town of Sarande. Soon we were off the boat, and wandering along the boulevard by the sea, backed by all kinds of nice restaurants and cafes. It reminded us of the French Riviera a bit. But if you walked a couple of streets away, it was a real insight into daily life. Washing hanging between the houses, dogs resting in the shade, old timers chatting… we didn’t have long but we had a good time and it was a great way to see a bit of Albania. A taster, let’s say.
That afternoon we were back at our apartment for a late lunch, and then we went down to the beach and found one of the hidden entrances in the rocks for a little dip in the sea. The water was freezing, but it was so clear and calm. You could see little fish swimming and it was just so peaceful. Not to mention clambering over the rocks to get in and out added to the sense of adventure! In the evening we hiked up into the countryside behind the apartments, into the olive groves, crickets chirping, for stunning views of the sea beyond. And we sat out till late listening to the traditional Greek music from one of the tavernas.
Our last day we had a lazy breakfast on the balcony, and then headed off to the little town of Kalami. We had been here before too, so we knew it was nice. We had a drink at the White House again, with stunning views, and explored a new hidden beach, Couchcouhlio. It was a great way to spend the day, and all too soon, it was time to leave. It was very hard to say bye to Nephele, and the island itself. There’s something about Corfu that just casts a spell on you. You just want to stay. I’m sure we will be back again, we just need to make sure it is sooner than nine years next time…
Practical Information
Getting here- Corfu airport is served by airlines from around Europe, mostly budget but also some national carriers. From there to Nissaki it is about 45 minutes and there are lots of taxis outside.
Where to stay- I can’t recommend Amalia complex enough, if you want to self cater. Nissaki is a lovely place to stay, the beach is wonderful, and the studios or one bedroom apartments have everything you need. The views from the balcony and pool alone are enough to sell the place! There’s also lots of mini markets around for essentials.
Getting around- Renting a car makes sense if you really want to see all of the island, as there are buses but their routes are limited and taxis are very pricy.
What to do- Check out some of the different beach towns, take a hike or walk, rent a boat, even head to Albania… there’s loads to do. I talk about some more things too, in my last post, like visiting the donkey sanctuary and Corfu Town.
When to visit- Last time we visited in June and it was HOT. Like close to 40. This time in May, it was a much more pleasant 23-25 and evenings and mornings were cooler which is much nicer for exploring, but maybe less so if you want to swim and lie on the beach. It was very sunny though, so I think sunbathing is still fine! Give anything earlier than May though a miss, as from all accounts, there’s a lot of rain.
Thank you to Maya for the lovely photos, and all the laughs x
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