More than two years since I left, I was back in Thailand. It felt instantly like coming home, something I wasn’t expecting. I’d left in such a rush, without a proper chance to say goodbye, full of emotion. So it felt like coming full circle. I’ve come so far since I left, grown in so many ways. It was so hard to leave, but it was the right decision at the time. Now though, it was just great to be back.
Driving to Pattaya, from the airport in Bangkok, over the highways, still busy, even at midnight, past the huge billboards, I already felt like I’d come home. I’d made that journey so many times. Pattaya itself was even busier than before. More high rises and shopping centres had popped up. It was looking prosperous with trees planted and flowers growing everywhere.
It was so nice to go back to our old haunts; Surf n Turf, our seat by the beach, Bamboo beach, massages at midnight. Hair raising motorbike rides, Terminal 21 for an AC break. My hairdresser was overcome with emotion that I’d remembered her and come back, though annoying little Lucky was now living in Bangkok with an auntie. I met up with old friends and caught up with the old and the new and the years in between, like I’d never been away. Mr. Fair was happy I was back, in his quiet meditative way, and tried to help me remember how to breathe.
7-11s were duly visited, sunsets were watched, tropical drinks in hand. Too many watermelon smoothies and rice and stir fried vegetables meals were eaten. On our last night we watched the sun set over the islands in the distance, from the 50th floor of the Hilton Hotel. And I thought about how much this place had taught me. And what an impact being here had on my life. Forever grateful I made the decision to come here, when I did. Till next time, Thailand.
I’ve wanted to visit since the Pinterest days. Rice fields, temples, waterfalls; exactly my kind of place. But you hear more negative reviews now, about how busy and over-run Bali is. So it was good to finally see it for myself.
I was staying in Ubud, a little town that shot to fame after the Eat, Pray, Love book. It’s well known for its yoga focus, and hippy vibes. I felt instantly at home there. Especially in my villa, with its own private pool surrounded by tropical foliage. It was all dark teak and rattan, an outdoor kitchen and sliding doors so you could step straight from bed into your pool.
I’d spend every morning swimming there, listening to the birds. And loved it in the evening too, swimming under the stars. And I loved Ubud itself. The coconut trees and rice fields (even one just outside my villa), and cute places to get coffee or lunch. Riding motorbikes barefoot and looking at fireflies at dusk, over the moonlit paddies. Prayer chants from the temples, the smell of sandalwood and incense everywhere. Frangipani flowers, floating on the pool. It was these moments, that stuck with me the most.
Yes, I did do some touristy stuff. The famous swing, over the rice terraces. A hike to a waterfall, a coffee plantation tour. But I’ll never forget the little girl who sat next to me, looking at my tattoos and letting me play with her lizard, as her mum made me a fresh meal from scratch, the sun setting over the paddies. Or getting a pedicure in someone’s upstairs attic room, under a lone lightbulb, mosquitoes and lizards chirping, as an old timer looked on from his evening tv show.
I don’t know, the place got under my skin. Not to mention you can just spend your days strolling from one rice field to another, stopping for iced coffees in aesthetic cafes, for a quarter of the price of back home. I guess I saw the draw; why some people never leave. I kind of wished I didn’t have to, either.
Practical Information
Getting there- Bali has an international airport reached from most places in Asia and the Middle East.
Where to stay- I loved my Airbnb villa. There’s many like it, especially in Ubud. You can stock up at the mini markets around the island.
What to do- Ubud is made for slow days. Stroll the rice fields, stop at one of the cafes. Definitely do the touristy loop of the waterfalls and temples, you can hire a driver for the day.
Getting around- Grab is the app for cheap rides and motorbikes. You can hire a driver for longer distances.
When to visit- Bali has a tropical climate, so expect humidity and showers all year around. Mostly though, the worst monsoons are in the autumn, I went in April and had hardly any rain.
This sweet girl came into my life just when I needed it the most. Missing Min deeply, I started volunteering at the greyhound kennels every day, going there to walk the hounds. One girl in particular bonded with me. Bessie, nee Bestie. Tiger stripped, kangaroo girl, who no one wanted to walk, or re-home. A couple months later and I made up my mind, I’d take her home.
From the kennel life to warm beds and comfy couches, rides in the car windows down, nose out. Pink collars with bows and sparkly bandanas. Yummy snacks and banana chunks and pup cups from Starbucks. Walks on the beach and in forests, shopping at the outlet. Cosy evenings watching football, lying on the grass on sunny days. Finally knowing what warmth and love and comfort are.
My weird, long nosed, skinny pencil girl. Who has come so far, and makes me smile everyday. Ily Bes Bes xx
Today’s Min’s anniversary. We miss you, Min. Thank you for sending Pencil to me ❤️
I couldn’t have asked for a better way to turn 30- a skiing break in the Pyrenees. It had been over ten years since I last strapped on a pair of skis, so I was very excited to be back on the slopes.
The ski resorts of the Pyrenees are only about an hour and a half from Samatan. The one we went to, St Larys Soulan was a good choice- with lots of accommodation close to the slopes, and slopes for all abilities. It was quite busy since we went over a snowy January weekend, but still, it was just so fun to be skiing again, and I was happy to see I hadn’t really forgotten it at all. Like riding a bike.
The cable cars up the mountain had beautiful views and while not as picturesque as Alpine towns, the resort still had a cute Center and a good vibe. And the place we stayed was warm, cosy and a nice place to come back to after a day on the slopes. I just wish we’d had longer than a weekend! Can’t wait to go back next year, hopefully for longer.
St Larys Soulan is about two hours from Toulouse, and easy to do over a long weekend. There are different ski passes available to buy, and lots of shops to rent skis and supplies from. Lessons are also available. January and February tend to be more snow-sure than December, but the resort is high up so generally a safe bet.
Perhaps one of the most special places I’ve ever been. Which is pretty high praise. From the red sand of the Kalahari to the mysterious scrub of Etosha to the cobalt blue Atlantic washing the shore on the Skeleton Coast, a road trip through this peaceful, wild country is something you have to do at least once in your life.
Day 1- Arrive Windhoek
Our flight arrived early afternoon so there was just time to pick up our massive double cabin pickup rental and make our way to the Airbnb we were staying in. There’s not loads going on in the capital, but a good nights rest is important before the long drives ahead, which is exactly what we got.
Day 2- Windhoek to Sesriem
We set off early from Windhoek, driving South, towards the desert. Before long the tarmac roads changed to gravel, and progress slowed. But it didn’t matter, because the views were so epic- red land, blue sky, and then we started spotting animals, like antelopes and the national animal, Kudus running across the empty landscape. It was a long drive, almost six hours but the landscape was so breathtaking we didn’t mind. We got to Sesriem, and our camp, the Desert safari camp.
What an epic place- luxury tents in the middle of the desert, with a pool and surrounded by the vast and empty desert and mountains and rock formations. We spent the rest of the day exploring the camp, and watching the most magical sunset over the rocks. And then, thousands of stars, and jackals coming out to look for food at the campfires!
Day 3- Soussevlei
We woke up early with the sun, ready to head even further into the desert. We drive for about an hour, into the Kalhari, where the ground got even drier and redder, and the famous red sand dunes started to appear. First, Dune 44, a towering red mountain and then, the famous Dune 45. It’s hard to appreciate how giant these dunes are and that they’re all made of sand. We wandered around, sliding on the hot sand, and then parked the truck and got into a jeep to go to Dead Vlei. We walked across the salt flats and saw the burnt out trees, it was such a surreal landscape, like a screen saver. We saw Big Daddy, the biggest dune of all, and I couldn’t believe I was there, somewhere I’d always wanted to go since I first saw this place in a travel magazine.
Day 4- Sesriem to Walvis Bay
None of us wanted to leave the next morning, such a magical place this was. But we had to keep going, so we were back on the road, coast bound. Another long drive, more varied landscape, through twists and turns of a giant gorge, onwards, until suddenly, the sea was insight on the horizon, and surrounded by golden sand dunes. Such a strange contrast! Walvis Bay was the busiest we had seen all week- seemed this was where everyone in Namibia lived. We found our Airbnb right by the beach. It was huge, like a beach house, and the whole area reminded us of Cape Cod or another fancy upmarket beach town. It was nice to catch our breath and have a relaxing afternoon enjoying the beach and the house, and watching dolphins jump just offshore. A good mid trip reset.
Day 5- Walvis Bay to Etosha
No rest for the wicked. We set off early from Walvis, in a thick fog that rolled in off the sea. But once we had got more inland it burned off, under a hot African sun. The landscape changed again too, and got greener, as we passed giant timber haulers and passed through small frontier-like towns as we headed North. A few hours later and we had arrived in the vicinity of Etosha National Park, in the far north of the country. We spotted three giraffes as we approached our camp, a taste of what was to come. We were staying at Etosha wildlife camp, one of the larger camps close to the main gate (Anderson). We checked into our cute bandas and had a walk around. The nice thing with this camp was how big it is; you could go for a long walk on paved roads into the surrounding bush, often spotting herds of antelope and gazelles and even cute little dik-diks. That night we enjoyed a fun atmosphere around the lodge dining area, with traditional signing and dancing and good food.
Day 6- Etosha National Park
We woke up with the sun for an early start, heading into the park proper, in an open top vehicle with a guide. Etosha is really wild, especially in the rainy season as it is so green and overgrown. Which makes it harder to spot animals, and they are especially shy here as there’s been so much poaching and hunting in the past. But when you do spot something, it feels even more special. The hunt is half the fun, anyway, and being out in the bush always feels special. But- we did spot a lot. Herds of wildebeest and gazelles and antelopes. Ostriches, massive herds of zebra, giraffe. And then, a cheeky hyena, loping across the grass. Then two lions in the distance, walking together majestically. But best of all- two rhino! This was new for me, and the final member of the big 5. A mother and child, slowly wandering across our path, and then disappearing quietly back into the bush. A really special moment. Then back at camp we had a chill afternoon, and another fun night at the lodge dinner, especially since it was actually Christmas Day!
Day 7- Etosha National Park
Another early start, back into the park in the jeep, hoping for more epic animal encounters. This time we were really hunting for elephants. It’s funny here how elusive they are. In other parks we’ve been in they’re everywhere. Here, you see signs of them only. In the end we spotted one lone male, but just saw him briefly before he faded back into the bush. It was eerie, how such big animals could hide so well, and you felt their presence, like they were watching you from somewhere close by. We also saw more lions in the distance, giraffe, and lovely zebra. In the afternoon we decided to go for a drive in the park on our own, which is one of the nice things that is allowed here. We were lucky enough to spot a lone male rhino! Three rhinos. Incredible. And then we raced back to camp as the skies turned black and thunder rumbled around us. You could see the massive flashes of lightning streaking across the sky. The rains were coming.
Day 8- Etosha to Windhoek
The last day. And the final long drive, back to Windhoek, back to the airport. The best roads of the trip, no more gravel, tarmac all the way back to the capital, which felt like a luxury after all the bumps of late. We saw a family of warthogs as we left, a final wildlife goodbye. At the airport we reluctantly returned the car, now caked in white dust and red sand, and brown mud. We’d covered more than 2000 km over all kinds of terrain, and that truck had done well.
What a trip. As our plane took off into dark skies, another storm arriving to drench the land, I thought about all we’d seen and experienced. It was an experience I’ll never forget. In one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever visited. Till next time.
Practical Information
Getting here- most flights here will be connecting ones, from hubs like Addis Ababa or Johannesburg. From the airport it’s easy to rent a pickup which you will need, for such a trip.
Getting around- you need a powerful car with 4WD. Also be sure to stock up on water, and fill fuel whenever you can. Within Etosha you can self drive or go with the guides.
Where to stay- We really liked our Airbnbs in Windhoek and Walvis. The Desert Camp and Etosha safari camp were great picks too. Book in advance, especially during peak season.
When to visit- Dry season has the best chance of animal encounters. We visited in the shoulder season and were lucky with the weather, mostly sunny, some rain the evenings or night. Go deep in green season and while cheaper you risk activities rained out and roads flooded.
All in all, be prepared for an incredible adventure! Xx
We spent a few days revisiting Rome, as well as Bari, on the coast, for the first time, as well as sneaking in another country (The Vatican), and in a different season to last time, early Autumn.
We started in Bari, just for a day, but we were sad it was so short because it’s such a cute city and beautiful spot by the Adriatic coast. It’s small enough to walk along the promenade by the sea and take most of it in. The beaches are pebbles and the water is so clear and blue, like Greece. There are plenty of places to sit by the water and have a drink or a meal, too.
From there we had the bright idea to save money on flights and took the Ita bus sleeper to Rome overnight. We expected two or three hours, maybe four, and it literally took all night! Maybe that was our fault for not realizing that. But luckily it’s quite comfortable and safe so we could get some sleep. And it is cheap, so not a complete fail.
We stayed in a neighborhood about half an hour from the Center of Rome, again, to try and save some money. The coastal neighborhood of Ostia Antica which turned out to be really nice and had a local kind of feel. Which was a good thing since we found Rome is so so so busy now, just full of tourists.
But, it was as beautiful as we remembered it, and we enjoyed meandering down the historic lanes and exploring the Campio de Florio market and the Jewish quarter. We also got to visit the Vatican, the world’s smallest country which was an interesting experience. The highlight was attending a small mass in one of the cathedrals there.
And on our last day we walked along the black sand beach near our apartment, and thought how varied and beautiful Italy is. We are already planning our next escape there…
Practical Information
Getting there- Bari has a small airport, and Rome has two large ones, served by many airlines. The route between Bari and Rome by road takes about six hours, and various companies, including Ita Bus and Flix bus make the journey.
Where to stay- we booked our place in Bari through Home 2 Go, and Air bnb, and both were great.
What to do- In Bari, stroll along the promenade. In the summer, swim in the sea or soak in the sun on the beaches. In Rome, there’s so much to see and do. This time we did the Vatican, but last time we did all the real touristy must dos, like the Colosseum and Pantheon (you can read about that on the site, too).
Getting around- Ubers are widely used, and both cities are very walkable too.
When to visit- We went in early autumn and lucked out with pleasant weather. Summer is very hot, winter and spring more changeable, but Italy is beautiful all year round.
Thank you to Maya for the photos and all the laughs x
The dream. Or at least, it always was for me, since I was young. Ever since I poured over travel magazines, with pictures of the islands plastered across the pages- insanely blue water and mystical jungle covered mountains, where whales swim in the deep and coral reefs circle lagoons. And finally, I got to see it all for myself.
It was unsurprisingly, a very long journey. First an 11 hour flight to LA followed by an eight hour one over the Pacific. Somehow though, it was almost the same day when we arrived. 12 hour time difference is wild. We landed in Tahiti, the main island, where the day was getting underway. We got the ferry straight away, to Moorea, the beautiful, wild island just across the water. And already, we were spotting pods of dolphins and the spouts of whales. Moorea loomed ahead; jagged mountains covered with jungle, and bright blue lagoons fringing the shores.
Our Airbnb was adorable. A villa on a hillside with a pool of its own, sea view on one side, the hills on the other. Frangipani everywhere and myna birds singing. We walked around to explore the area. Everyone was friendly; Polynesians are full of life and character, and are often singing and always smiling. We stocked up on supplies (all the same brands as in France, and everyone speaks French. It’s like a little piece of tropical France). And the best place to watch the sun set, we found, was by the pool, as the sky turns orange and paints the sea beneath it the same color.
One of the main reasons I’d come all this way, was because I’d read a long time ago it’s one of the best and few places in the world where you can swim with humpback whales. Each year these majestic animals make the long journey from Antarctica to the warm waters off the coast here, before returning a few months later. And they had just arrived. So I booked a couple of tours with Moorea Moana Tours to hopefully get the chance to experience that. I was picked up early morning, still dark out. We boarded the small boat as dawn was breaking, and puttered out of the lagoon, into the wider ocean as the sun rose. All our eyes were peeled for the whales. Eventually our guide spotted them, their spouts. We observed them for a while, to see if they were going to stick around, and when we decided they were, it was time to get in the water. It was slightly unnerving, out in the middle of the Pacific. Cold, clear blue water, but no whales to be seen. Seemed they were shy and were swimming away. We weren’t going to chase them or bother them, so we got back on the boat. I found out it’s notoriously hard, to actually swim with them, but still felt lucky to have been able to see them so close by from the boat.
The next morning, it was time to try again. This time I brought Maya along too, to stay on the boat but to experience the whales anyway. The waves were large, tossing the little boat. But we persevered, and saw dolphins and a turtle, before the captain spotted the whales. Again, we watched them first, for a while, before entering the water. The waves were even bigger, and it was hard work swimming toward them. But this time, we were rewarded for our efforts. Three of them. Slowly moving through the deep blue, like giant ghosts. A mother, large baby, and a male who had tagged along for company. So graceful, for such giant creatures. The world seemed to slow, for the few moments they were there. Then again, they were gone, swallowed by the endless blue. But you could hear them, their cries to each other. Like nothing else. It was an unforgettable, magical experience, and the crew were amazing- professional yet passionate about the whales, and the ocean in general.
After the whales, there was still much exploring to be done. Like testing all the beaches on the island. Our favorites were Tamae Beach, the largest on the island, with groves of palm trees and the bluest water you’ve ever seen. Then there was Taiahura which was closer to our place. With rocks you could swim to, inhabited by little fish, and places to just chill in the warm water. And if you went a bit further, a secret beach, where we spotted a sting ray and had the clear lagoon almost to ourselves.
We also rented a little car to explore the interior of the island; those moody peaks and mysterious coves, chancing upon wild horses and pineapple plantations. The island was one of the most magical places, and watching it grow smaller from the ferry a week later was definitely harder than I’d expected. Luckily though, we still had a day in Tahiti itself, to explore the main island.
We checked into our new Airbnb, also cute, close to the beach and the hills behind. The roads were busier, but it was interesting to really be part of Polynesian life. The nearby beach was a beauty; long and golden and full of coconut trees. We spent the whole day there, as well as exploring the hills behind our house, complete with little waterfall. That evening we saw a beautiful sunset over the sea, and Moorea, in the distance. And watched as the sky was full of a million stars, and a giant, silver full moon was shining above the hills behind.
Practical Information
Getting here- Tahiti is a bit of a trek to get to, as it is after all in the middle of the Pacific. If coming from Europe, you will most likely have to transfer through Los Angeles. It is quite a journey, but well worth it. From Tahiti, ferries run frequently to Moorea and back again. I booked in advance with Terevau but there are tickets available on the day too.
Where to stay- we really liked both the Airbnbs we stayed in. There are lots of options on the site.
Getting around- a car is recommended to really explore the islands. In Moorea we used Vaiana and they were great. We didn’t rent a car in Tahiti since we were only there a day. Tess’s taxis on Moorea is a friendly local company to use if you don’t have a car.
What to do- the beaches and ocean are the main attraction, of course. If you’re there in season, between mid July and November, make sure to go and look for the whales. Use a reputable company, like Moorea Moana Tours.
When to visit- whale season is mid July to November. This also coincides with the best weather on the islands, but remember these are tropical places so rain can fall at any time. We had a lot of lovely weather when we were there, but be prepared all the same since when it rains, it pours! The Tahiti news website is the best place to look at a detailed weather forecast.
Other tips- French Polynesia is an expensive destination, so keep that in mind. Knowing some French is really helpful! And most of the foods in Europe can be found here too. Also the flights are long so do as we did and take a stopover on the way or way back, in the USA, if you can. You will definitely want to bring a waterproof camera along. I used Diji Osmo and it worked really well!
Thanks to Maya for the photos, company and laughs xx
Perhaps one of the most referenced places in the world. Through movies, songs, popular culture, there’s few other places that can compare in terms of being so famous. And we finally got the chance to see if LA and California in general lived up to the hype.
Out of LAX, into the hot sunshine. Into our rental car, onto the Interstate. It was an experience already; eight lane highways busy with cars and trucks, dry desert hills on either side. There’s something to be said for a place where the sun always seems to shine. The area we were staying in Woodland Hills was like an American version of where we are in Bruinisse, with manicured lawns and flowers, just instead of pine trees there are palms, and the flowers are bougainvillea not tulips. Our Airbnb was super cute, with a little patio to sit out on, and a cool white interior.
We had much to do over the next three days. Starting with a little road trip, along the famous Pacific Coast Highway. Only recently reopened after the devastating fires earlier in the year, it was an epic drive, the Pacific glinting on the side. We started with Malibu walking along to Surfrider beach and nosing around chi chi boutiques. From there we carried on to Santa Monica, where we saw the famous pier and long boulevard. The people watching was first class and it was cool to tick off these must-sees. We especially liked Malibu. Driving back via the Topanga Canyon highway, we even saw two coyotes!
The next day, we set off early, to downtown LA. We met up with Ryan and Holly who had a pack of rescued pups. Brownie, Mojo, Princess and the gang were all so adorable, and we got to walk them in Runyon Canyonwhere we got incredible views from the top of the Hollywood sign, and the surrounding area. And it was such a worthwhile thing to do, giving these sweet doggos a walk and a chance to get lots of hugs and pets, and you get an insight into LA life with a local. Definitely a worthwhile thing to do here.
That afternoon we went to Topanga State Park not far from our place. We decided to walk the Eagle’s rock trail. It was beautiful; hot sun, blue skies, dry earth, greens and browns and khakis. Steep climbs, patches of shade to catch our breath, the calls of eagles above the valleys. One of the wilder places we’ve been. You felt free, light. But also quite hot and sweaty. Still, it was a great experience, and the landscape was amazing.
On our final day, we went to nearby Calabasas to feel like cool kids. Well, since some of the rich and famous have houses around here and in general it’s an upmarket place, with an old town based on an Italian riviera village, all fountains and gelato colored buildings. We got drinks in cute places, sunglasses on, watching the traffic of G-wagons and sports cars. And it was so close to our place, too. It’s a great place for people watching, and a bite to eat or drink in the sun at one of the outdoor cafes.
All too soon, our stay in LA was up. Driving back over the freeways at golden hour felt bittersweet. We’d come to love this place, just as so many before us have. Hopefully, we will be back one day.
Practical information
Getting here- LAX is served by most major airlines. You can get some good deals if you shop around.
Getting around- you have to rent a car. Driving here is an experience in itself and you need one to access most things as no one walks in America. Seriously. We used Alamo and were happy with the service.
Where to stay- we loved our Airbnb! Linking it below.
What to do- Some of the areas and things to do are above. And honestly, use Chat GPT for any help tailoring a road trip to your wants and needs. It can be quite confusing otherwise. You can book the dog walk experience via Airbnb on their LA experiences page.
When to visit- Cali is beautiful all year. That’s one of the joys of a visit here. Be aware of fires, especially in the summer.
Thank you to Maya for the photos, laughs and company xx
It’s funny that even though we’ve been to France so many times, we’ve barely seen Paris. So we made that right, and spent a night and a day there, before our flight to Tahiti. It was a glorious summers day too, which made seeing the sights even more enjoyable.
We were staying in a beautiful Airbnb in Clichy, about 20 minutes from central Paris by metro. It was all white, high ceilings, blond wood floors…. Very aesthetic, very Paris. And we liked the area too, with a park opposite and cafes surrounded by leafy greenery. The metro was easy to use, and got us straight into the heart of things first thing in the morning, as the sun was starting to touch the tops of the buildings, casting a golden glow on the cobbled streets.
We started with the famous lady herself, the Eiffel Tower. A cliche, maybe, but we still found it a lovely sight, poking up above the pretty buildings and houses, half hidden by green leaves and reflected in the still waters of the Seine. And we found that, if you walk just a short way away from the crowds, there were quiet streets and bridges from where you could have an almost uninterrupted view of the famous tower.
Then we walked, a lot, as you always seem to find yourself doing in cities. Along the Seine, getting lost in the backstreets. Finding ourselves in the plush eighth arondissement, where blue suited types and those carrying designer bags wandered, and fountains burbled. We had to visit the PSG store (ask Maya), and ended by the grand Arc de Triomphe. By now the sun was high in the sky and we were feeling the midday heat, so we wandered, slower, finding ourselves a quiet spot in a quiet park, near the Place de Concorde.
There are flowers everywhere, there’s birdsong. It’s green and leafy, the sky is blue, the twitter of French, the sweet smell of baguettes and pastries… it might be a big city but France is France. It always feels like home. Our stay in Paris was way too short. But that just means we will have to come back again, soon.
Practical Information
Getting here- Paris has two airports served by most airlines and if travelling from Europe it’s easy to take a train like the Euro Star straight to Gare du Nord.
