Perhaps one of the most special places I’ve ever been. Which is pretty high praise. From the red sand of the Kalahari to the mysterious scrub of Etosha to the cobalt blue Atlantic washing the shore on the Skeleton Coast, a road trip through this peaceful, wild country is something you have to do at least once in your life.
Day 1- Arrive Windhoek
Our flight arrived early afternoon so there was just time to pick up our massive double cabin pickup rental and make our way to the Airbnb we were staying in. There’s not loads going on in the capital, but a good nights rest is important before the long drives ahead, which is exactly what we got.
Day 2- Windhoek to Sesriem
We set off early from Windhoek, driving South, towards the desert. Before long the tarmac roads changed to gravel, and progress slowed. But it didn’t matter, because the views were so epic- red land, blue sky, and then we started spotting animals, like antelopes and the national animal, Kudus running across the empty landscape. It was a long drive, almost six hours but the landscape was so breathtaking we didn’t mind. We got to Sesriem, and our camp, the Desert safari camp.
What an epic place- luxury tents in the middle of the desert, with a pool and surrounded by the vast and empty desert and mountains and rock formations. We spent the rest of the day exploring the camp, and watching the most magical sunset over the rocks. And then, thousands of stars, and jackals coming out to look for food at the campfires!
Day 3- Soussevlei
We woke up early with the sun, ready to head even further into the desert. We drive for about an hour, into the Kalhari, where the ground got even drier and redder, and the famous red sand dunes started to appear. First, Dune 44, a towering red mountain and then, the famous Dune 45. It’s hard to appreciate how giant these dunes are and that they’re all made of sand. We wandered around, sliding on the hot sand, and then parked the truck and got into a jeep to go to Dead Vlei. We walked across the salt flats and saw the burnt out trees, it was such a surreal landscape, like a screen saver. We saw Big Daddy, the biggest dune of all, and I couldn’t believe I was there, somewhere I’d always wanted to go since I first saw this place in a travel magazine.
Day 4- Sesriem to Walvis Bay
None of us wanted to leave the next morning, such a magical place this was. But we had to keep going, so we were back on the road, coast bound. Another long drive, more varied landscape, through twists and turns of a giant gorge, onwards, until suddenly, the sea was insight on the horizon, and surrounded by golden sand dunes. Such a strange contrast! Walvis Bay was the busiest we had seen all week- seemed this was where everyone in Namibia lived. We found our Airbnb right by the beach. It was huge, like a beach house, and the whole area reminded us of Cape Cod or another fancy upmarket beach town. It was nice to catch our breath and have a relaxing afternoon enjoying the beach and the house, and watching dolphins jump just offshore. A good mid trip reset.
Day 5- Walvis Bay to Etosha
No rest for the wicked. We set off early from Walvis, in a thick fog that rolled in off the sea. But once we had got more inland it burned off, under a hot African sun. The landscape changed again too, and got greener, as we passed giant timber haulers and passed through small frontier-like towns as we headed North. A few hours later and we had arrived in the vicinity of Etosha National Park, in the far north of the country. We spotted three giraffes as we approached our camp, a taste of what was to come. We were staying at Etosha wildlife camp, one of the larger camps close to the main gate (Anderson). We checked into our cute bandas and had a walk around. The nice thing with this camp was how big it is; you could go for a long walk on paved roads into the surrounding bush, often spotting herds of antelope and gazelles and even cute little dik-diks. That night we enjoyed a fun atmosphere around the lodge dining area, with traditional signing and dancing and good food.
Day 6- Etosha National Park
We woke up with the sun for an early start, heading into the park proper, in an open top vehicle with a guide. Etosha is really wild, especially in the rainy season as it is so green and overgrown. Which makes it harder to spot animals, and they are especially shy here as there’s been so much poaching and hunting in the past. But when you do spot something, it feels even more special. The hunt is half the fun, anyway, and being out in the bush always feels special. But- we did spot a lot. Herds of wildebeest and gazelles and antelopes. Ostriches, massive herds of zebra, giraffe. And then, a cheeky hyena, loping across the grass. Then two lions in the distance, walking together majestically. But best of all- two rhino! This was new for me, and the final member of the big 5. A mother and child, slowly wandering across our path, and then disappearing quietly back into the bush. A really special moment. Then back at camp we had a chill afternoon, and another fun night at the lodge dinner, especially since it was actually Christmas Day!
Day 7- Etosha National Park
Another early start, back into the park in the jeep, hoping for more epic animal encounters. This time we were really hunting for elephants. It’s funny here how elusive they are. In other parks we’ve been in they’re everywhere. Here, you see signs of them only. In the end we spotted one lone male, but just saw him briefly before he faded back into the bush. It was eerie, how such big animals could hide so well, and you felt their presence, like they were watching you from somewhere close by. We also saw more lions in the distance, giraffe, and lovely zebra. In the afternoon we decided to go for a drive in the park on our own, which is one of the nice things that is allowed here. We were lucky enough to spot a lone male rhino! Three rhinos. Incredible. And then we raced back to camp as the skies turned black and thunder rumbled around us. You could see the massive flashes of lightning streaking across the sky. The rains were coming.
Day 8- Etosha to Windhoek
The last day. And the final long drive, back to Windhoek, back to the airport. The best roads of the trip, no more gravel, tarmac all the way back to the capital, which felt like a luxury after all the bumps of late. We saw a family of warthogs as we left, a final wildlife goodbye. At the airport we reluctantly returned the car, now caked in white dust and red sand, and brown mud. We’d covered more than 2000 km over all kinds of terrain, and that truck had done well.
What a trip. As our plane took off into dark skies, another storm arriving to drench the land, I thought about all we’d seen and experienced. It was an experience I’ll never forget. In one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever visited. Till next time.
Practical Information
Getting here- most flights here will be connecting ones, from hubs like Addis Ababa or Johannesburg. From the airport it’s easy to rent a pickup which you will need, for such a trip.
Getting around- you need a powerful car with 4WD. Also be sure to stock up on water, and fill fuel whenever you can. Within Etosha you can self drive or go with the guides.
Where to stay- We really liked our Airbnbs in Windhoek and Walvis. The Desert Camp and Etosha safari camp were great picks too. Book in advance, especially during peak season.
When to visit- Dry season has the best chance of animal encounters. We visited in the shoulder season and were lucky with the weather, mostly sunny, some rain the evenings or night. Go deep in green season and while cheaper you risk activities rained out and roads flooded.
All in all, be prepared for an incredible adventure! Xx